CELLULITE—Effective New Treatments and Products for an Old Problem
by Nina Africano --
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 CELLULITE:
EFFECTIVE NEW
TREATMENTS & PRODUCTS FOR AN OLD PROBLEM
by Nina Africano
Cellulite first entered our collective consciousness in the 1970's÷I recall mocking my mother when she purchased Elancyl's green and white rubber scrubber that was supposed to tone up the dimpled thighs with the help of a special seaweed soap. Well, that was long ago, but as statistics predict, cellulite eventually comes to us all÷or nearly all, anyway; an estimated 80-90% of women in the western world confront cellulite. The culprits are: weight gain, sedentary lifestyle, high-fat, low-fiber diet, hormonal changes, and genetic predisposition. (Thanks, Mom!)
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While American doctors pronounced cellulite to be another figment of women's imaginations, the French devised ways to fend off this esthetic scourge ·
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These various factors cause the fat cells in the subcutaneous fat layer to increase up to 300 times their original size and stick together inside the pockets in which they are enclosed. The pocket is stretched upward while the fibers in between the pockets are strained, circulation is inhibited, and toxins and water are trapped. The result is cellulite.
While American doctors pronounced cellulite to be another figment of women's imaginations, the French devised ways to fend off this esthetic scourge, and even decades later many of the products and treatments carry a Paris label. (Maybe Mireille Guiliano didn't give us all the reasons why French Women Don't Get Fat!)
In the 1980's and Î90's, liposuction became the hottest aesthetic surgery, and, despite the costs and dangers, the quick-fix way of dealing with saddlebags. But even surgery may not actually eliminate cellulite. Then mesotherapy began making waves in this country, though it's been practiced in France for over 50 years. In mesotherapy, a variety of medicines, enzymes, and herbal preparations are injected directly into the mesoderm, the layer of fat and connective tissue that harbors cellulite. These may include: aminophillin and isopropenol (better known as asthma drugs) to break down fat; collegenase and hyaluronidase (enzymes that break down the connective fibers); vasodilators to increase blood and lymph circulation; along with anti-inflammatory drugs to limit pain and swelling. Proponents like New York City osteopath Dr. Lionel Bissoon, founder of the American Board of Mesotherapy, claim the results are indisputable, while detractors shudder at the practice, which, they say, is untested and unregulated. Side effects can include infection, sores, and scarring. Typically, 6 to 10 treatments are recommended, at anywhere from $750 to $1500 apiece. www.mesotherapy.com. Recently, though, there has been a veritable explosion of non-invasive treatments and home-care products to fight cellulite.
Way back in 1979 French physician and biochemist Olivier Fouche created Ionithermie, but this treatment was only introduced to the United States two years ago. Originally developed as a treatment for arthritis, Ionithermie uses electrical stimulation with a patented, conductive algae and clay body mask in a treatment that attacks cellulite on multiple fronts. Even after a single Ionithermie session, inch-loss is measurable÷a thrill for results-starved dieters or anyone who is after a little instant gratification. Lasting slimming and cellulite reduction can be achieved with a series of sessions along with home treatments and lifestyle changes÷i.e. diet and exercise.
The promised 1-8 inch loss sounds crazy, until you realize it's a total of 11 different measurements around the waist, hips, and thighs. I tried the treatment at New York City's posh Greenhouse Spa (www.thegreenhousespa.net), where therapist Marilena Ipekian is an enthusiastic advocate, having seen good results for many clients, as well as for herself.
The first step is exfoliation with a bristle brush followed by skin toner to open the pores for detox-ing formula, a glass ampoule containing extracts of red algae, ivy, and bile extract, which helps emulsify fatty deposits. Next, the therapist prepares the thermal clay mask, which is first spread on the treatment bed. Electrodes are positioned in the conductive clay, and then a layer of gauze goes on top to keep this from being a messy affair. Wearing a disposable thong, you then get on the table and position your derri re over the prepared mask. The first sensation is less than pleasant, like sitting in a clammy bathing suit (or worse). But the discomfort quickly fades as the therapist applies the gauze, mask, and electrodes to the top of the thighs and covers you with a thermal blanket.
 You may feel quite a shock (no pun) when the therapist turns on the electric stimulation; after a moment I got used to it, though. If you are uncomfortable, the therapist can dial down the intensity. The pulsing Faradic stimulation flexes and tones the muscles in the same way that passive muscle exercisers do. But that's not all it's doing. The moist clay mask conducts the Galvanic (direct) current across the entire hip and thigh area, propelling the minerals in the clay and the potent ingredients in the slimming ampoule deep into the layers of the skin. There, they flush out excess fluid and toxins, and stimulate the blood flow and lymphatic systems to eliminate these wastes, disperse bulging fatty deposits, and finally repair and strengthen the skin.
After this, the therapist applies a soothing moisturizer and measures your progress. As a total of the 11 measurements, I had lost almost six inches, which did not particularly impress me, though the 0.8 inch reduction around the stubborn upper thigh area got my attention. Knowing that it was a huge water-weight loss (as I ran to the toilet), I checked that measurement the next day, the next week, and the next month, and found it had remained at the reduced number.
At The Greenhouse, Ionithermie treatments are $165 per session or $890 for a series of six. Ionithermie is also available at Georgette Klinger (www.georgetteklinger.com or 800-KLINGER), select Ritz-Carlton, St. Regis, and Hyatt resorts. Go to www.ionithermie.us or call 866-403-4179 for locations.
 Keep in mind that with Ionithermie's electrical stimulation and heavy fluid flushing, there are a number of contra-indications, including: cardiac problems, certain skin conditions, shellfish allergies, pregnancy, epilepsy, over-active thyroid, metal pins or plates in the body, and insulin-dependant diabetes; you should discuss these when booking your first appointment. N.B.: to avoid becoming dehydrated, you are encouraged to drink plenty of water before and after the procedure.
Also developed in France over a decade ago, Endermologie is the first patented technology which was FDA approved to effectively reduce the appearance of cellulite and decrease the girth of legs, thighs, and buttocks, as well as increase circulation, reduce stretch marks, relax muscle spasms, and relieve minor muscle aches and pains.
Endermologie's therapeutic massagers use rollers and gentle suction to deeply massage affected areas with specific techniques to work the several layers of the skin. Studies have shown increased circulation, improved collagen function, abnormal fluid retention is expelled as the connective fibers regain elasticity.
After one session of Endermologie, you'll certainly see fluid expelled, but you'll need a series of treatments to see the full benefits, which is probably why it's a treatment that is more likely to be offered at top day spas, like Maria Bonita Salon & Spa in Manhattan's chic Nolita district. (www.mariabonitany.com).
You wear a sheer body stocking to make sure the suction doesn't pinch the skin. The therapist goes over your body from ankles to shoulders, using a small hose with light suction on areas where skin is thinner, heavy pressure on recalcitrant thigh area. Though some people may experience bruising, I did not, even though I bruise fairly easily. In fact, I found the entire procedure something of a giggle.
Of course, to Brazilians like Fernanda and Maria Claudia Lacerda, owners of Maria Bonita, thighs that are not fit to be seen are no laughing matter, and so they offer Endermologie sessions singly ($100), in packages of 10 sessions ($850) or 20 sessions ($1700), and pair them with a Deep Tissue Massage ($90), a Cellulite Massage ($90), or detoxing Lymphatic Drainage Massage ($85), for maximal results. Through December, 2005, Maria Bonita is offering the combination of Endermologie with a Cellulite Massage for $157.
The latest cellulite treatment making headlines is the TriActive Laser, available at top medi-spas like New York City's Juva Skin and Laser Center and California's La Jolla Spa MD. As the name implies, the TriActive laser fights cellulite in three distinct ways: the laser targets tightly packed fat cells and stimulates microcirculation, while the instrument's chilled head cools the skin surface to reduce fluid retention. A suction massage also tones skin and stimulates lymphatic drainage and collagen production.
According to Dr. Kathryn Frew, staff dermatologist at Juva, the results of their 8 week clinical studies are very promising: 90% of patients saw improvement, which were maintained over at least a month after their last treatment. As with many treatments, women with mild to moderate cellulite were likely to see improvements sooner, and maintaining a healthy diet and exercise regimen was key to maximizing results. The cost is $125 per session, or $1,440 for a package of 16 treatments. (www.juvaskin.com or 212-688-JUVA).
A true medi-spa, Juva also offers the latest surgical interventions, including the new, super-fast power liposuction and subcision, a procedure that has been popular in Brazil. Subcision can be performed on thighs, buttocks, abdomen, and breasts, with the patient under local anesthesia. The doctor makes a small incision into the deep layer of fat, using needles to break up the restrictive bands of fat that give cellulite its orange peel appearance. Results can last up to six months, but a compression belt must be worn for two to three weeks to minimize bruising.
In addition to surgery, TriActive Laser, Ionithermie, and Endermologie, La Jolla Spa MD has its own contrivance for sale: the Anti-Cellulite Shorts & Cream Kit ($95). The shorts have a BioCeramic layer which uses the body's own heat to promote penetration of the cream's active ingredients into fat layers, where its combination of anti-oxidants and stimulants increase blood flow. Available in black in sizes XS-XL at www.spa-md.com.
While the new scientific devices with their clinical trials are much more likely to inspire confidence and get more women to give them a try, the shorts reminded me of the Presso-Jet therapy, for years, the most effective treatment spas could offer, and a contraption that "I Love Lucy" could have had a field day with. You don inflatable pants that rhythmically contract to give the thighs and buttocks a slimming and detoxing massage. (Just leave the camera at home.)
PRODUCTS
Pevonia Botanica's Ligne Nymphea or Spa Body Line features two superb products with chlorogenic acid, the Body-Svelt Cellulite Gel and Body-Svelt Cellulite Cream. Just what is chlorogenic acid, you may well ask. Dr. Christian Jurist explains: "Chlorogenic acid is a powerful antioxidant found in green coffee beans that possesses strong lipolytic activity to defeat most of the issues related to cellulite, including the property of inhibiting the anti-diuretic hormone (ADH) for improved diuresis and detoxification."
The Cellulite Gel, which is for daytime use, also has caffeine and ginkgo biloba. The Cellulite Cream for night omits the caffeine, but packs other diuretics÷guarana and kola nut, along with anti-oxidant green tea, and soothing licorice. After using these products for just a few days, I noticed an immediate improvement in skin tone and texture, not to mention the potent diuretic effect.
The Ligne Nymphea bath products are perfect as a first step; the Seaweed Exfoliating soap with crushed almonds and marine algae extract leaves skin fresh and new, without feeling the least bit rough. The latest addition to the Ligne Nymphea is Smooth & Tone Bath & Shower Gel, combines algae, horsetail, and ivy with an invigorating whiff of pine needles.
Building on the success of the Ligne Nymphea products, Pevonia recently introduced the Green Coffee Treatment to its line of professional spa body treatments. The active components of this total body wrap are chlorogenic, caffeic, and phenolic acids; a major flush of toxins and retained water; as well as increased blood flow and lymphatic drainage can also help metabolize the stored fat.
Pevonia Botanica products and treatments are featured at top salons and destinations spas including: The Phoenician in Scottsdale, AZ; La Costa in Carlsbad, CA; and the Spa at the Hotel Hershey (www.SpaAtHotelHershey.com or 800-HERSHEY). See www.pevonia.com or call 800-PEVONIA for more.
  Anushka--the woman who has seen more cottage cheese than Sam Breakstone in her 30 years of fighting cellulite at her day spas in New York City and South Florida--has recently introduced Cellulite Censored Liposerum. This power-packed formula promises results in just three weeks, with an impressive list of ingredients including caffeine, ivy, iodine, and butcher's broom, as well as things that require further explanation like: GHK copper peptide, a potent anti-oxidant which aids in cellular renewal and glycyl-histidyl-lysine, a complex anti-radical. Cellulite Censored Liposerum is available ($85 for 6.7 oz.) along with an array of fat-fighting serums, scrubs, and gels at www.AnushkaOnline.com.
 Anushka incorporates her new Cellulite Censored Liposerum in her 5-Week Intensive Body Contouring Program at the Anushka Cellulite Clinics located in Boca Raton and Palm Beach Gardens, FL and at Georgette Klinger in New York City (www.georgetteklinger.com). The program is a five-phase attack that begins with heat treatments to boost microcirculation, raise metabolic rate, increase oxygenation, and detoxify and re-mineralize; these include: a Seaweed Body Wrap, a Thermo-Jet, Mud Body Wrap, and an Aromatherm Body Wrap. In Phase Two, physical manipulation in the form of the TÒ Thin Thigh Toner and the Dimple Destroyer Derma-Jet firms, tones, and oxygenates, in addition to boosting microcirculation and lipolysis. Phase Three focuses on lymphatic drainage, with the Presso-Jet and a Thigh Contouring Massage to accelerate the body's filtration system and eliminate water retention. Phase Four is a personal nutrition and fitness consultation with Anushka, who can devise a regimen that work's for each client's lifestyle. Phase Five involves an array of home care products to keep on slimming including: Cellulite Censored Liposerum, Hot Shot Thigh Gel ($35), Defying Gravity ($40), Sea Sluff Energizing Scrub ($29), and Thigh Solution ($33), all available at www.AnushkaOnline.com.
If you can't locate an in-spa cellulite treatment near you, the at-home preparation that comes closest to that super-flushing action is perhaps GUAM Seaweed Mud from the Italian company Lacote (www.lacoteusa.com, 888-528-3030). The mineral-rich marine algae-clay mixture also contains ivy, lemon, and oregano extracts. You apply it like a mask to buttocks and thighs (a thong is definitely in order here), and then swath yourself in plastic wrap for 45 minutes. Once wrapped, you can slip on a pair of loose cotton shorts and putter around the house, although the plastic makes crackling sounds and sitting down gives an unpleasant squishy feeling. You really don't want nosy neighbors or mocking teenagers around for this.
After about 15 minutes, you experience a sort of prickly heat sensation, which then gradually subsides. When you unwrap and rinse, thighs are quite pink, as if they were sunburned, and a little bit itchy, too. While the redness fades within about an hour, you certainly don't want to try this treatment before heading outside in shorts.
The recommended application schedule is daily for three days, then twice a week, and finally once a week. After just one application the amount of water eliminated is quite impressive, but maintaining this regimen would seem to require a bit more dedication than I have. A 17.6 oz. jar of GUAM Seaweed Mud is $40 and is enough for 5-6 applications. Complementary products also contain seaweed extracts: GUAM Strengthening Gel ($20 for 8.45 oz.) which tones, smoothes, and nourishes the skin; and GUAM Seaweed Algascrub ($28 for 24.6 oz.) an exfoliating sea salt scrub which has an agreeable cool, mint sensation and leaves a light film of oil which makes skin wonderfully soft.
 One of the newest American products to hit the market is Cellu-Ice, an effervescent skin mousse that attacks the causes of cellulite--fats, fluids, and toxins trapped deep in the skin. The clear, non-staining foam feels cool to the touch and absorbs rapidly, thanks to the cutting edge technology of its delivery system; Cellu-Ice's proprietary blend of pure retinol, ginkgo biloba, ivy extracts, butcherbroom and caffeine are delivered in tiny nanospheres that quickly penetrates the layers of the skin.
For most women, Cellu-Ice provides measurable results; in a 60-day clinical study of 20 women between the ages of 18-70 using Cellu-Ice, 85% showed a decrease in thigh circumference of .5-1.0 cm, 75% had a decrease in girth of buttocks of .5-3.0 cm, and most showed improvement in skin smoothness, elasticity, and orange peel texture.
For best results, the product should be applied twice daily to clean, dry skin on problem areas of the thighs, tummy and buttocks. As with all topical products, continued use is necessary to maintain results. A 4 oz. pressurized canister is $79.99 at www.skinspatherapies.com or 888-898-7333.
Somewhat more low-tech, Revive Detox Cellulite Gel from Aromatherapy Associates uses a harvest of fragrant essential oils to attack fluid retention and bloating. Rub the gel over legs and ankles to avoid puffiness, and enjoy a cloud of damask rosewater, pine, pink grapefruit, rosemary, and juniper berry. See www.AromatherapyAssociates.com to locate a spa in your area that carries Aromatherapy Associates' products, like Canyon Ranch, Golden Door, and some Four Seasons Hotels.
Institut Dermed's new CelluliteRx takes a more clinical approach to cellulite, diagnosing the problem as an inflammatory process due to decreased circulation, which eventually leads to stiffening of collagen in connective tissue, and decreased impaired cellular function. Now, we all know that cellulite mostly affects women, and that is because the increase of fat cells is hormonally regulated by estrogen. So, to balance the increased estrogen that leads to weight gain, CelluliteRx incorporates USP Natural Progesterone derived from plants into its LipoTherm contour cream. Along with omega-3 and omega fatty acids, alpha lipoic acid, and acetyl carnitine, an amino acid that helps the body burn fat for energy. When you apply the LipoTherm cream to hips and thighs, you may notice a warm, rosy flush to the skin caused by niacin (vitamin B3), a vasodilator that causes capillary dilation and increased circulation. Be sure to wash your hands after use.
 CelluliteRx is actually a three-step system, of which Step 1 is the LipoSmooth Body Polish, a creamy apricot seed and walnut shell scrub that readies the skin for the LipoTherm Contour Cream. Step 3 is the LipoLift firming cream, whose key ingredient is glycolic acid; an alpha hydroxy acid that is more common to facial applications, glycolic acid accelerates skin's cellular renewal process, improving tone and elasticity and stimulating collagen production. CelluliteRx is available at Nordstrom's and other retail outlets for $150. See idermed.com or call 866-IDERMED for details.
While many of these products are on the pricier side, le dernier cri in Paris is L'Or al's Sublime Slim, which has just arrived in drugstores, supermarkets, and mass market retailers in the U.S. at just $13.89 for a 6.7 oz. tube. There are two formulas to help battle cottage cheese thighs round the clock: Sublime Slim Day Anti-Cellulite + Skin Sculpting Body Firming Gel contains caffeine and Par-Elastyl, a proprietary ingredient that firms skin by fighting damage to elastic skin fibers. Sublime Slim Night Anti-Cellulite + Smoothing Body Toning Gel has no caffeine, but twice the dose of Par-Elastyl, as well as Ginkgo Biloba, a powerful antioxidant that aids circulation, and Rutin, a Brazilian tree extract that helps deter nighttime fat storage. Each package also contains diagrammed instructions for a quick, slimming massage technique that boosts the products' effectiveness. Visit www.lorealparis.com for more on Sublime Slim or call 800-322-2036 for personal skin care advice from L'Or al.
THE BOTTOM LINE
While many products contain some trade-marked ingredients, you'll see a number of things cropping up over and over on labels: caffeine, ivy, ginkgo biloba, niacin, and carnitine, an amino acid that helps the body burn fat for energy. You'll see iodine listed on some labels, while others may contain seaweed or marine algae, which is likely to have a good amount of iodine. This is not to say they're all the same, but there are similarities.
Most of the products I tried produced a noticeable diuretic effect (a.k.a. detox or flushing), showing that the new formulations really do deliver the active ingredients deep into the layers of the skin. (This also means you have to be sure to drink plenty of water, which is really a good idea regardless.) Many products achieve this result with ingredients like caffeine, guarana extract, or ginkgo biloba; if you have had adverse effects from any of these stimulants in the past, you may want to choose a different product. Also, several regimens offer daytime and nighttime versions; you may want to decide when it's more convenient to be running to the bathroom.
I should probably add that I am only about ten to fifteen pounds over my ideal weight, with mild to moderate cellulite. This puts me in the category of women who can expect to get the best results. Also, my investigations coincided with a time when I became more active (end of dark winter) and improved my diet somewhat. It will take women who are very overweight or have extreme cases of cellulite much longer to see improvement.
Even without using the products as faithfully as recommended, I could definitely see and feel better skin tone and texture. Of course, as it's a particularly neglected area, there was plenty of room for improvement there. Many products also claim that they can stimulate lipolysis (fat-burning) as well as the production of collagen and elastin, which is less easily observed. All in all, I was pleasantly surprised with the performance of the products I tried, and would recommend them to anyone who wants to improve the rear view.
OTHER SPA TREATMENTS
You won't see many bulging butts on the France's C te d'Azur; French women certainly know about the benefits of treatments like the No Complex Body Treatment offered at the Spa Givenchy located on the penthouse floor of Cannes's famed Hotel Martinez. The treatment incorporates four different Givenchy No Complex products in a stimulating massage that aims to firm thighs, waist, and buttocks, tone the skin around the neck and breasts, and flush out retained water. The 50-minute treatment is 115 euros. www.hotel-martinez.com.
You can also buy Givenchy's four No Complex products: No Complex Firming and Lifting Bust Serum; No Complex Sculpting and Firming Lotion for the Stomach and Waist; No Complex Body Contouring and Firming Cream for Buttocks and Thighs; and No Complex Revitalizing and Softening Body Mist. Inside the package you'll find instructions in a dozen languages diagramming Givenchy Spas' massage techniques for bust, waist, and buttocks and thighs.
Closer to home, the Spa at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Washington, D.C. offers the Stimulating Hip and Thigh Treatment. This specialized E'SPA treatment to energize the circulatory and lymphatic systems begins with an exfoliation with a seaweed and salt rub. Next comes a detoxifying massage, concentrating on areas prone to cellulite, fluid retention, and uneven skin texture. Reflexology points on the feet are massaged, as are points around the eyes that aid lymphatic drainage. A course of six 50-minute treatments ($120 each) is recommended. The treatment is also available at Bermuda's famed Elbow Beach Hotel, as well as other Mandarin Oriental Hotel spas. www.mandarinoriental.com.
Boca Raton Resort & Club's Spa Palazzo offers a Citrus Cellulite Treatment, a cooling, aromatic body tone-up that targets areas of cellulite with a massage technique that encourages circulation. The treatment incorporates Aromatherapy Associates' fragrant Revive Detox Cellulite Gel as well as a firming mud mask. For best results, go for a series of three 50-minute treatments over three days ($120). www.bocaresort.com or 888-495-BOCA.
Thalassotherapy, or treatments featuring seawater, have long been popular for their curative benefits in Europe, and now Mexico's newest five-star resort Paraiso de la Bonita on the Riviera Maya offers the first full Thalasso Spa in North America. In addition to Cellu M6 Endermologie (50 min, $120) and Pressotherapy (25 min., $105), Paraiso de la Bonita offers a vibration-therapy massage called Thalgoslim General (50 min., $140) and Thalgomince Wrap, a 50-minute, toning anti-cellulite treatment featuring Thalgo products ($220). See www.paraisodelabonita.com.
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