The international spa and salon staff offer free mini-seminars on a variety of subjects from makeup tips. Two of these I have cherished ever since a 1992 Costa cruise: a really wonderful technique to use with terra cotta blush, and moistening cotton swabs and pads before using them to remove makeup, a technique that reduces pulling on delicate skin. On the Mediterranea, consultants were ready to discuss everything from firming problem areas to hair highlights and treatment.

The treatment rooms are spacious and serene and the therapists very knowledgeable and careful about collecting all possible information before beginning a session. There is a gentle Roman ambience to the spa area and the appeal is so strong that it is a very good idea to plan and book appointments well ahead, despite the fact that they are open from 8 to 8. On formal night and anytime when the ship is at sea rather than in port, therapists are busy from morning until night and you absolutely must get your name in early on the cruise or risk disappointment.

To help passengers get a sun-kissed look without risking the skin, they offer an exfoliation, cream tanning process, and the Body Glisten Rub, which drew both men and women for a seaweed body scrub followed by aromatic oil treatment and Swedish massage; both treatments are about an hour and each is under $100. They also will teach partners how to massage or give European Oxygen Lifting Facials that reduce lines and puffiness and dark circles. They offer Ionithermie sessions, which one 30-something mother on board told me had put her figure back together after pregnancy. It is designed to remove cellulite and they advertise that it takes off 1-8 inches in one treatment. Spa-lovers should keep an eye on the spa packages and specials offered daily in the passenger newspaper; some of them are very good bargains.

However, the most unusual aspect of Costa's fitness program is not so well known. In the gorgeous multi-level gym wrapped in glass, the cutting edge Technogym equipment has a special feature. If you sign up with a personal program for a Technogym workout (only $20) you have a virtual personal trainer for the duration of your cruise and any future cruises, since you are given a key that connects with your program. Instead of having to remember what you are supposed to do and when to do it, it is all programmed. Using your key, you are prompted to each exercise, and if you are lucky enough to use a gym with Technogym equipment, you can take your key and your routine home with you. The exercises can be changed or made more difficult over time with further consultations.