shouldn't have been surprised to encounter magic at the Roe Spa in Northern Ireland. After all, this is St. Patrick's Country, near the place where he tended his sheep when brought as a hostage to the land he returned to after gaining his freedom.

The spa at the Radisson Roe Park Resort in Limavady also has a remarkable lineage, having been designed by Schletterer Wellness, whose previous projects include the spas aboard Queen Mary 2 and at New York City's Waldorf Astoria Hotel. The Roe Spa is quite new, having been opened in September 2006.

The spa features sophisticated treatments by highly competent therapists and the land-based glories of what is arguably the most scenically varied, historically significant and relatively little trafficked part of the island of Ireland. The World Heritage Site Giants Causeway, the peerless links courses where British Open and Senior British Opens have been played, the 7-mile strand at Benone, the gently majestic nine Glens of Antrim are all an easy drive away. The trick is to allot enough time to enjoy the full scope of luxury and variety Roe Park and its neighbors offer.

Roe Spa's therapists are all recruited locally (and because nearby Derry is an important cruise ship port, many have been trained with major cruise lines.) The treatment rooms are designed to be as conducive to the therapists' health and comfort as to the clients'. Floors are American Walnut. Tables for Ayurveda exfoliation treatments are oval. There are ample opportunities to look out at the green environment. It is a combination that produces optimum results and contributes to an ambience that is fully professional and fully personal.

I registered and filled out a questionnaire about health and wellness status that had obviously been studied and noted by the therapists who later treated me.

I enjoyed four widely varied experiences; two in the only Aqua Meditation Chamber in Ireland; a gourmet dinner chosen from a menu that included vegetarian, gluten-free and healthy option choices; and a dreamless sleep in the large, firm, gauze-curtained bed at the center of a suite in the old part of the original house. (You can be sure that nothing like the huge marble bath with separate shower and Jacuzzi tub could ever have been envisioned by the Alexander family who lived here in the 19th century.)

The next morning began with an extensive breakfast buffet and a conversation with general manager John Carroll, who was a principal architect of the å£1 million+ spa investment that has added an important new dimension to the resort's character and reputation.

That Aqua Meditation Chamber is where a visit to the Roe Spa begins and ends. Relaxing in the banquettes that surround the dimly lighted room, my eye was drawn to a central spherical chamber where gently circulating water was lighted with a succession of soothing colors and the air was subtly permeated by the aroma of lemon grass. It is hard to leave when your therapist comes to invite you to your first treatment.

For me that was a selection of one of Roe's five Bathing Ceremonies. I selected the Exotic Jasmine Flower Bath (å£25/20 minutes) because that fragrance from childhood evokes protection and pampering for me. Therapist Julianne Rafferty saw me into the large pedestal bath at the center of the blue-lighted treatment room and before leaving the room and assuring me that she was awaiting me just outside the door should I need her, told me to let myself float up from the supine position the bath encouraged as I listened to the soothing, non-intrusive music. That was easy. The combined effect of the water's warmth and the intermittent massaging jets was nearly hypnotic.

A signature treatment at the spa is the Exotic Rasul Mud Chamber (å£35/45 minutes.) Spa Director Terry Kelly later confirmed that this is most frequently chosen by couples (å£50/45 minutes.) Although approaching it solo may have some effect on the emotional response, the physical benefits are unquestionable. In the treatment room that includes both water and enclosed steam showers, Rafferty presented me with a tray of medicinal chakra muds in five different colors. The colors correspond to the level of exfoliation properties. They range from white for the face to grey for the arms, deep grey for the lower legs, ocher for the bust area, terra cotta for the abdominals, and there also in a sixth, black for the hard skin areas such as knees, elbows and heels.

She applied the clay to my upper back and then left me to apply the rest before moving into what is described (rightly) as an herbal steam temple. The treatment is designed to help cleanse the respiratory system, smooth the skin, detoxify the body and revitalize one's chi energy. As the muds liquefy and begin to melt away, a warm rain pours down from the dome of the Rasul, washing away them away. I finished with a traditional shower.

I had dinner with a local couple that night. We headed to the resort's Green Room, the more formal of its two restaurants (the other being the casual/elegant Coach House Brasserie that overlooks the resort's parkland golf course.) Menu choices included fish entrees like the Salmon Mousse-stuffed John Dory with Tomato and Chive Bernaise also gluten free) that I always love to rediscover when traveling in this part of the world.

One guest chose Roast Cod with Tomato and Fennel Lasagna and Red Leicester Cheese, which is noted on the menu as a Healthy Option or a recipe that could be adapted and then served with steamed vegetables or mixed salad. The vegetarian chose a Pea and Parmesan Risotto with Grilled Asparagus. At dinner, the husband of the couple filled me in on their impressions of the on-site gym, swimming pool and golf course, all of which were easily accessible from his architectural practice in Derry.

The next day after a breakfast buffet that provided a full range of both prudent and indulgent choices, I headed back to the Spa for two other treatments. The first was the Elemis Deep Tissue Muscle Massage (å£45/60minutes) with therapist Olivia Semple. As is customary here, the massage begins at the feet with a technique Semple told me is called "The Welcome Touch." It involves a warm, aromatic compress on the feet designed to remove the client from contact with the outside environment and start the journey of relaxation.

The treatment begins with a dry brush exfoliation using a natural cactus bristle body brush. She explained that this is designed to kick start circulation and insure that the oils applied will be fully absorbed. Their technique is always to move toward the heart: upward from the feet and inward from the sides. In a conversation after the treatment I learned that this brush is the single most popular self-purchase item for spa visitors.

For a slender young woman, Semple's touch was strong and deft and she located areas of stress without me having to guide her to them. The atmosphere was tranquil without being artificial. It was a wonderful feeling to be in the hands of someone who was accurately reading my muscles and opting to linger where there was more need for unknotting.

I learned afterward that the massage therapists at Roe are taught to incorporate what they call Ten Cultural Touches: techniques drawn from various cultures' approaches to massage.

There was never a sense of haste but in retrospect I note that Semple sensed where her touch was likely to be most therapeutic and invested more time in those areas. I was struck by the fact that she had obviously read and absorbed the medical/wellness summary I had completed when registering at Roe Spa and made it a point to ask subtly about the one medication I take and how it was affecting my body.

She was neither silent nor intrusive and we spoke about the experience she had as a child that told her she wanted to work in some form of healing and touching. She actually studied product design at university and only afterward found her way to what she considers her true vocation. My own positive response to this therapist was shared by a friend who had seen her the day before and experienced remarkable relief from a chronic buildup of tension in her lower back and neck muscles.

It was only when I asked that Semple told me the specific products she had used for my massage. She told me she chose the particular combination of oil and medium based on the condition of my skin, which she found to be dry. The choice is specific to each client, focusing on the therapist's impression of that person, the condition of his or her skin and the presence of such issues as fluid retention or muscular soreness.

I chose to purchase the Milk Bath and related Japanese Camellia Oil she had used in my massage. The absence of an overt effort to sell me on purchases was a welcome change from many experiences I have had in New York City and elsewhere.

My next treatment was the Sole Delight Foot Treatment (å£25/30 minutes.) Again the therapist was Semple and this time the intensity of strength in her hands was even more apparent as I could watch her movements as clearly as I felt them. She made a point of noting that she did not want to call this treatment reflexology since she and her director Terry would only have done so if they had used the services of a dedicated reflexologist. And neither would have recommended that the reflexology be paired with a deep tissue massage in the same half day. The half hour treatment brought all my foot surfaces and muscles into play and once again, Olivia found my so-called Achilles Heel without needing to be told that the left heel had recently been a trouble spot for me.

I took my leave with regret and complete understanding of St. Patrick's desire to return here.